Out and about in Bangalore.

It is 7 am and I only have 30 minutes on the free computer at the hotel here in Mysore. This place is SWANK compared to Kamat hotel in Bangalore. It has a fan and a shower and so far no cockroaches (who made an appearance - just little ones - on our second night at Kamat).

So back to our first day. After we left the Internet place, we wandered over to Brigade Street where Judy knew there was shopping. We walked for what seemed like miles. On our route they were preparing some sort of parade grounds - I learned that the next day was a national holiday. I wanted to take a picture of the National Disaster Management sign for Melissa but first I tried to ID a bird. Out came the binoculars. Within one minute a National Guard came rushing over with his rifle to move us along. I pointed to the bird and he said "it is a bird - GO!" We went, sorry Melissa, no picture. One day my binoculars will get me arrested (remember Kenya?)

Anyway, we made it to Brigade Street but it was super-commercial and by then it was dark and we were tired so we hopped in a auto-rickshaw to go home. I realize I am not breaking any new ground (literary, anthropologically or travel lore wise) by describing Indian traffic but I would be remiss if I didn't give it at least a mention. IT IS INSANE! It makes Bangkok look organized. There are (in order of kill-me-ability) trucks, buses, cars, auto-rickshaws, motorcycles (with up to 6 people per), bicycles, ox carts, carts pulled by barefoot men, random cows, and then the lowest of the low - the poor pedestrian who statistically should have been dead by the age of four if he tried to cross two streets per day from the age of two.

I am trying to decipher the honking, which is constant. There is the 'I am beside you honk', the 'I am passing you honk', I assume (probably incorrectly) that there is a 'watch out because I am not stopping for you' honk for smaller vehicles and pedestrians. Amazingly, I haven't seen an accident despite everyone driving on the wrong side of the road, weaving past each other all the while not hitting cows or people, talking on their cell phones. Fortunately, Suresh is a good driver (insane but good). And I am reassured by the fact that first, he won't get paid if he kills us, second and way more important, he will never get paid again if he wrecks his car.

Suresh is actually a very nice man. I will push my luck and try to tell you about day two even though I will likely get booted from this computer.

My second Kurta outfit. Check out those huge pants. I already look like I have elephanititis!

Suresh picked us up at 10am on Tuesday (after a breakfast of Idly - soft rice cakes with curry dip - yum) to take us on a tour of Bangalore.

My second morning, my second breakfast. This is called Idly, a rice mush cake that comes with dipping sauce.

As I mentioned Tuesday was a National holiday of some sort - not Independence day, that's all I know. Our first stop was a garden (I will have to fill in names later) where they were having a garden show. Indians love their parks.

This was the entrance to the park, a huge rocky area with a tiny temple on top.

A bunny garbage can looking out from the bushes.

I think there was a parakeet up there.


You can't get a picture without people so I just went with it.

Boys climbing a tree

There were traffic cops everywhere. We finally got a parking spot and headed in. So many people. We wandered around for a bit, took some pictures. I am not taking nearly as many pictures as I should. Even though people walk up to us and ask to have their picture taken, especially people with babies, or even ask to take our pictures, I just can't get over the ickyness of objectifying people. But, of course, I am torn. They are such beautiful people. And the colours are out of this world. Fortunately, Judy has no such qualms and is snap happy to there will be lots of photos. But I digress.

Take a picture of our baby!

In the middle of the park was the glass house, actually a green house.
The Glass House behind a million people

The Glass House closer up.

In we went to look at a massive, impressive display of flowers, now wilting in the hothouse. The flowers were secondary however to the bazillion people they had crammed into this glass house. We could barely move. Again, mental flashes of stampeding crowds crushing innocent people under their feet. But, clearly, we made it out, uncrushed.

The crowds inside the Glass House were overwhelming

Flowers!

More flowers but in a pillar this time.

Cops directing the crowds

Or just posing. I hope this isn't a cop but with the child labour laws here - who knows??

The Christmas tree display. Such a sad little wilty tree.

Vegetable towers

More vegetable display.

I did some birding at the lotus pond which wasn't nearly as pretty as the name makes it seem. But there were some good birds, none of which I remember... - a couple of types of moorhens and an Indian Pond Heron? a new Kite, a parrot of some sort.

School Field Day at the park

Selling popcorn.

The lotus pond. Two Indian Pond Herons, a Darter and a Moorhen.

The rose garden.

Yikes!!

Then we went for lunch. Suresh ordered for us. We got some sort of full meal package. First, tomato soup with cardamon and ginger, a coconut pastry, and a papadam with dices onions & other veg. This was called a salad. Then the main meal arrived. Note for mom, this will be the style for your next Indian meal because it was AWESOME! On a big plate, two naan surrounded by 10 little dishes filled with various vegetarian currys, yogurt and cucumber (raita?), rice and I can't even remember what all. It was amazing. Plus the bonus of eating all of this with my hands. Actually hand, one doesn't(or at least tries really hard not to) eat with their left hand. I am getting pretty good at it.

Our lunch. Now I know this is called a Thali (a complete meal with all the fixins)

Judy tucks in.

This restaurant is where I encountered my first Indian toilet. I have dealt with squat toilets in the past and have never been adept at the best of times. I think I am standing backwards. But past practise did not prepare me for my new situation. Add to the squat toilet situation, a scarf, a flowing top, and ridiculously huge pants. Then consider that I am strapped up with hidden bags like a old West gunslinger with one around my waist and another around my neck, under my arm with a strap also around my waist. throw into the mix a purse and a camera and you have a recipe for unpleasantness. Laundry night!.

Suresh is a devout Hindu so he manages to sneak in a couple of temples each day under the guise of 'tourist interest' but really he want to worship. The temples are quite beautiful, (I have pictures which are all starting to look alike) and it is interesting to watch the people doing whatever it is they are doing. Mostly giving money and looking pious. I shall now rant. Every time I go to some poor country, the organized religion drives me crazy. The poorest people giving money for upkeep of an expensive temple plunked down in the middle of their ramshackle homes. But then I remember that I am standing in the middle of these poor poor people with my untold riches (the cost of my camera, binoculars, bag etc could feed a family for a year) and I am equally disgusted by my own culture and self. This is why people don't like to travel - it forces uncomfortable self reflection. This is why I like to travel.

The temple.

Shoes off!

The Bull Temple

My first Bindi.

Need a temple souvenir?

Anyway. We ended the day at Russell Market, a fruit, veg and flower market established by the British in 1927. I was tired by then and had no interest in fruit, veg OR flowers.

Russell Market - I have to say, I did not like this market, it was cramped and smelly and I didn't think the people were very friendly.

Inside the market

More market wares.

Last stop, a nearby Christian church (Suresh thought we needed to pray to our own god?) where they were having mass over loud speakers. What with the neon lights and the booming voice, it wasn't at all comforting like I imagine a church should be. I did try to sit on a bench out front but a guard moved me along. I guess only worshippers are allowed to sit.

The Christian Church lit up at night.

The Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus in the comforting glow of blue Neon

And don't forget to watch for theives while you worship.

A few more random images from the day.

That park temple again.

Selling snacks.

Temple detail.

Me and Judy

Driving by the night market.

Back to Kamat by 8 pm. I skipped dinner, lunch was still with me. Judy fell asleep in her clothes by 8:02. I followed close behind.

I will not even attempt to steal another 30 minutes on this computer - I am in a room behind the front desk and the door keeps opening so I think I am done.

My first day in India - brain melting

Let me start with the flight since I can probably process that info a bit better than my first day here.

I made it out ok but of course, once again I got lost in Vancouver airport. I had got to chatting with my seat mate on the Vic to Van run. Once we landed and got into the terminal, I started following the International Departure signs as I continued chatting. Once again, third year in a row, I found myself at the manned desk where I had to show my boarding pass. AGAIN, I missed the turn where I check in to get my boarding pass. As I was heading back, I realized I had also forgotten to pick up my bag. Hmmm, so much for all of my security measures, a carbiner isn't going to help if I just leave stuff abandoned. When I found the baggage carousel, my backpack was going around and around all by itself, nobody around. So I scooped that, eventually found the check in, got my stuff in order and finally to my gate. I had a couple of hours to kill so I bought a magazine and planted myself.

My flight to Frankfurt started worryingly. My back of the seat video terminal didn't work. 10 hours!! No videos!! Mr. Head Steward was on the job. He rebooted several times but still no luck. Eventually, after my first suggesting he move me to first class and then, second, a smiley threat to make his life miserable, he shut down the whole system and got it working after about 90 minutes.

90 minutes of rebooting!

I watched UP which was hilarious; 500 Days of Summer which was also very good and Love Happens which was so bad that of course it was the only movie they showed on the next leg of my journey. Food was very good - ravioli.

The wait at Frankfurt was short so I didn't have time for anything. It was snowing there so this meant for some reason, that we landed a million miles from the terminal and had to shuttle it from the back-40.



Snowy Frankfurt airport

By the time I got to my gate, I only had time to fill my water bottle, hit the washroom and then get in line to pass over my boarding pass. Just as I was entering the on-ramp, two guards pulled me aside to give me 'extra security'. There was another woman walking beside me who asked if it was for both of us and they said no, just me. Imagine me a icy windshield and the woman guards hands as an ice scraper. She was everywhere. then the wand. I don't know what the wand measured but it was beeping crazily away. I didn't know if this meant that I was covered in explosives, drugs, or just had an underwire bra. Apparently, whatever it meant, I was allowed on the plane. Not to dwell, but I found this fairly innocuous experience somewhat unsettling. Why did they pick me. They didn't have a computer so they didn't have access to my itinerary beyond where my flight was going but everyone was going to the same place. They would have had to chose me based on my looks or actions. Do I look shifty? Do I act suspicious? I am used to not standing out and I have to say, I don't like being noteworthy.

Next jump, Frankfurt to Bangalore was fine but no back of the seat videos. By this time I was so tired I didn't even care, especially when I realized the movie that was showing. I did have an empty seat between me and the aisle person, a nice German lady. I think I fell asleep right away but someone woke me up for dinner. My choice was chicken or vegetarian. I went chicken. My seat mate got the veg. Hers came with rice and green and yellow stuff plus many little pots of sauces and dips. I was quite jealous as mine was adequate at best. Anyway, 9 hours later I was in India. Again I was sent to an extra security person who stamped my passport and handed it back without explanation. For the three seconds it took me to find and read the stamp, I thought I wasn't allowed in. But the stamp just said that I have to leave India for two months before I can apply for another entry visa. All good.

Then I go into the next area, where I found my bag and then into the next area where I expect Judy to meet me but as I was walking out the door there was so many people. They were all holding signs or just generally looking expectant. I didn't see Judy. So I stood there for a minute or two, pretty stunned, contemplating the fact that I didn't know where Judy was staying, had a phone number that didn't work, and no real way to contact her. Hmmm, maybe a backup plan might have been an idea. But right then, Suresh found me. Suresh is Judy's cab driver friend. I'm sure there will be many stories about Suresh to come. He took me to Judy and we got the hell out of there.

He took us to Kamat hotel. We arrived at 3AM, woke up the front desk guy. There were people sleeping everywhere, there were at least four outside on the front entrance and three in the lobby. The streets were absolutely deserted, no people, no cars, just sleeping dogs. Which all woke up and started barking the minute we got into bed. The room is very Mexico-esque. No shower, just a bucket and plastic cup but upscale in that the plastic cup is not a yogurt container, it is an actual store bought plastic cup.

Not the best bathroom but certainly not the worst either.

10 bucks a night. For two. I obviously fell right back into the life because Judy had to point out that there was no hot water. It didn't even register for me while I was 'showering' this morning.

"Do not urinate here' - the view from our window once daylight arrived.

I am wearing my Punjabi suit so it feels like being outside in my jammies. Why don't we wear these in Canada?

My first day, wearing my first Kurta and pant set (courtesy of Judy who had it made for me)

Today, Judy and I are just wandering around. We ate breakfast at the hotel. I had a Dosa, a fried pancakey thing with spicy stuff inside - my first meal involved potato! Which I ate - sort of. Anyway, even with the potato, it was delicious.

Judy enjoying her tiny coffee at my first breakfast. We soon learned to order two coffees at once - each.

Then we hit the shops. Someone remind me why I didn't bring that extra bag...

Bedspreads

Pillows

Silk!! So much silk!

Pomegranites on a fruit stand

Then lunch were I got some sort of Mushroom in 'gravy (curry sauce)' and Judy got Dal which was so tasty, I ate half of hers too.

I forgot to take a picture until almost the end.

Looking at our new purchases back in the room

Anyway, I think tomorrow we are heading out on some crazy cab/road trip with Suresh.