Sunday, January 31, 2010

A Sari Affair.

As I mentioned before, Judy bought a sari at the gift shop of the Sultan's Palace. I had already left so that I could put my shoes on. Judy came to find me and said (and I quote) 'I never buy things at tourist gift shops' but there was a beautiful sari with a black border and a lovely cream, orange etc pattern of flowers. Suresh took one look at it and declared it wasn't pure silk so it was no good. Unfortunately, he then left us to our own devices. Judy really liked the pattern so I said, if you like it buy it. My friend Val had long ago taught me to buy what you like for the price you think is reasonable. The clerk assured Judy that it was silk, she would never lie because she worked for a 'government store' and they had to tell the truth. She then knocked the price down to $2100 rupees so Judy bought it.

Judy was quite excited to have a Sari but Suresh told her if she wanted to wear it she would have to get a sari blouse, the little half shirt, and a sari petticoat, apparently a cotton skirt is worn under the sari - who knew? After we got back from all of Mysore touristy business Suresh said we would go the shops to get Judy all sorted. But first, Judy wanted to find out for sure if the sari was pure silk or not. she had read somewhere that if you light silk on fire it will turn to ash but if there is any other synthetic fabric mixed in there will be a plastic lump left when the fire burns out. So there the three of us are, out front of the hotel, cutting a piece off the sari and lighting it on fire, in the street. Well, of course, the tell tale plastic lump was there as damning evidence!! Not pure silk.

The cutting of the sari. Just a tiny bit needed to show if it is a blend or pure silk.

Lighting the swatch.

The offending plastic lump which, unfortunately didn't show up in the photo.

Judy got a mini Suresh lecture on trusting salespeople. I, attempting to be the voice of reason, mentioned that it was still beautiful and could still be used. It's not like she had bought a plastic picnic table cover but Suresh seemed to feel that if Judy wanted a sari, Judy should have a proper sari, although he kept this to himself for the time being. Suresh is a bit sly.

Anyway, first we needed the fabric for the blouse. Off we go to the 'fabric and clothing district'. There were hundreds of shops selling all manner of saris, Indian dresses, western clothes and lots of tailor shops. However by this time, it was after 8 pm. First we go to a couple of fabric shops - have I mentioned the fabulous fabrics in this country! - where the array of colours of silk was staggering. But Judy wanted a black blouse to match the black border of her sari. Suresh insisted that Judy have hand woven (I think this was the goal?) silk for her blouse so we went to a few shops before we found one that had the specific type Suresh was looking for.

I have to give a bit of info on shopping with Suresh. He doesn't understand women and shopping. For example, when I again mentioned some downtime, maybe for some shopping, he said 'what do you need, I will get it for you. Do you need sandals, I can get you sandals'. Another time, Judy saw a sign for a book mall and mentioned that maybe we could go there. Suresh said, 'what book do you want, I will get it for you'. You get my point here. Plus, the few times we have been in a shopping area, Suresh leads the way at a quick clip. Stop to look at something and you may be lost in the crowd forever. So shopping so far has been a challenge.

So back to the streets of Mysore. Suresh is walking at a running pace for me and Judy, stopping in the occasional store, and then continuing on until we get to the snazziest place on the street. It has glass counters and very alert looking clerks. Fabric is upstairs. So up we go and are sat to have the fabric brought to us. By this time Judy and I are getting quite giggley. It is hard not to find Suresh amusing when he has a mission. He takes his 'responsibilities' quite seriously.

In the Silk and Sari shop. Pick a colour, any colour.

Hmmm? Which black silk fabric matches the sari better?

Judy brings out her sari and you should have seen the look of derision on the clerk's face. But he was a professional and pulled it together pretty fast. But then he just couldn't stay silent when he saw the price. He and Suresh had a unintelligible conversation which we assumed was about the idiocy of tourists. He then explained that she could wear it once or twice but then it would not be usable as a sari and could be used as wash rags (I think he said wall covering but we knew what he meant). Judy and I were now finding this all quite hilarious. Men having long discussions about her blouse without consulting her was just too, well, Indian. (Suresh has to be reminded occasionally that we get to participate in decision making every once in a while. Our participation is often a mere formality because we usually end up doing what Suresh thinks we should be doing. )

Finally a fabric was chosen, a piece was cut and, foolishly, I assumed we were done here. Not so. We head downstairs where Suresh puts his 'get Judy a real sari' plan into action. The clerks are of course, quite happy to comply. So we get sat again to look at saris. Now, as most of you know, sari fabric is the most beautiful fabric in the world. The colours, the patterns, the texture. It is prit-near impossible not to want to touch them and buy them for that matter. They start arriving to be opened and spread out on the counter, one gorgeous sari after another. We look at the price - LESS than the fake one she bought!! Clerk - 'feel the difference, this is silk, yours is woven coconut husks'. Well, I am paraphrasing here but you get the picture. By now, Judy is liking her sari less and less, and we are laughing more and more. The men keep looking at us like we clearly are too crazy to make our own decisions so more man discussing ensues.

The clerk and Suresh were keen that Judy buy a higher quality sari, hand woven silk. But Judy liked the soft feel of the lower end but still pure silk ones. So we looked at dozens of designs, no two in the store are alike. She already had the black blouse fabric so we started with saris with black in them. But it turns out that the better quality, cheaper prices saris have blouse fabric included. Judy's fake sari was getting worse and worse. We didn't like the ones with black so Judy chose one with peach and sage green pastels. Lovely, of course. I will mention here that I was strong and did not buy one but it was close.

Here's a beautiful one.

Or how about this beautiful one?

And another beautiful one.

Blouse fabric bought, second sari chosen and paid for. Mission accomplished - HA, surely you jest! Nope, after the 90 minutes of sari selection, we were back on the street. Now we were looking for the petticoats, one for each sari. Two shops later, that was done without too much fanfair. Then we were looking for a tailor, again at a break neck pace. Judy kept saying things like - 'um, is there going to be a woman to take my measurements?'. No answer - this never bodes well. First tailor couldn't do it for a week. More charging about (dodging cars in the pitch black in back alleys just added to the fun). Next tailor shop was below street level and had their entire inventory on the floor for some never-clarified reason. The tailor had to be called but he arrived withing 10 minutes. For those 10 minutes, Judy kept worrying about some creepy old man taking her measurements. But when the tailor arrived he was a quite nice looking young man. 'bring on the measuring' says Judy!

Now to create a mental picture for you. We have a shop with stuff everywhere and two employees, the tailor and Suresh all discussing Judy and her bosom. Within minutes, the man from the next shop comes over to throw in his two cents. I was on the stairs above just killing myself laughing. Poor Judy, she was trying not to look at me but she couldn't keep a straight face either. Then when a sixth man arrived from the street to join in the fray, it was too much. Finally, with the full complement of the six required men, Judy and her boobs were measured. By now, I was actually crying with laughter. Laughing that hard can be dangerous when bathrooms are few and far between! I took lots of pictures, which I'm sure was not helping the seriousness of the situation.

The tailor shop, with a full compliment of 'helpers'.

The measuring of the bosom.

Eventually, now almost 10 at night, we were done. Off to dinner - I remember now, we had dinner, spaghetti alfredo (don't get western food in India) - to debrief on the sari business. Suresh couldn't understand why this all seemed so funny to us but every time he mentioned something else, it would set us off again.

Checking out the new silk sari.

A couple of days later, we were passing through Mysore again so we picked up the blouses. But so far, Judy has not had a chance to try either of the saris on - that night we were in the worst hotel EVER and we didn't even want to take out our toothbrushes let alone that lovely silk sari (I will eventually catch up and tell you about this night). Next night we got to our tiny room late. Now Suresh is saying he is going to find an Indian woman at this hotel to come to our room to assist Judy with putting on the sari as it would be highly inappropriate for him to help. I will let you know how that goes. Pictures will be taken.

The final results.

Dress Rehearsal - Practising over clothes. Check out those awesome pleats!

Looking good. Ready for the whole ensemble.

Looks amazing. And it isn't even the real silk one.

This side looks good too!!

Judy was having so much fun, I wanted to give it a try too.

Judy put on the real silk one next but apparently I didn't take a picture on my camera so here is one of her in the sari at the airport.

Off to Mysore

So, we have been charging about the country and I have not had one minute or any opportunity to write anything but all is well. So much has happened but we are outside of the Golden Temple in Little Tibet (it has a real name which I will eventually add) and we are eager to get inside while the getting is good (worship?) So back to last week. We left Bangalore and headed off to Mysore. I have to be honest here, we did some stuff on the way, I am trying to take notes because it is beyond overwhelming and I just can't keep track, but I can't really remember what we did on the trip. Ok, checked my notes, we drove lots. We did stop for lunch at this very funky restaurant - part of the Kamat chain but much better than the hotel. Again Veg - did I mention I have not had any meat since I left the plane!! Anyway, the lunch was like the meal I described earlier with the chapati (thinner naan) in the middle with the little pots but at this place, they have an organic farm and their own cows for buttermilk & curd (yogurt - a meal staple). Here they skipped the little pots and just put everything on a banana leaf. If any pile of food started to get low, they rushed over and refilled the leaf. I had to finally fold my leaf in half to stop them putting more food in front of me. The meals are so delicious that it is hard not to eat and eat and eat. Veg does not mean diet.

Potless Thali

Suresh enjoying his lunch

Buckets of food - it just kept arriving!

After lunch we took a quick walk around the restaurant. There was monkeys, now blase but at the time still new. However these were particularly excellent monkeys. One of them had stolen someone's jacket so the whole troop but especially the babies were having a high old time playing with the jacket. Hiding under it, tug of war, peek a boo. Very hilarious. I took a short video but of course, it will not do justice.



I have the Coooaatt!! Come and get me.

Let's just check the pockets. If we find cash we don't have to steal our Thalis.

Hmmm? What's under here?

On our way out, I bought some candy, I wanted three pieces of two kinds but I ended up with a pound! Oh well. Candy counter

More driving, a temple or two. One extra note, we stopped at a Bull temple and had our first sugar cane juice. Ok, sounds sweet but actually very tasty. They crush the sugar cane right there and mix in ginger and fresh lime. Yum. Is this starting to be the food blog of India.

Entrance to the Bull Temple (actually this might be a different Bull Temple)

Too much Thali.

Decorating the Bull with flowers and other ritually stuff.

Suresh and Judy making sure the Bull shows up in their photos.

Crushing the sugar cane with added ginger and lime.

Our cane juice ready to drink.

Eventually we got to Mysore where we stayed in the previously mentioned swank hotel. However, as nice as the room was and the people very friendly, the food was disappointing. Side note here - elevators. Our first hotel Kamat in Bangalore had this creaky old elevator with gate doors where you could see the floors go by. But the best part was when you hit the button, there was this loud siren that sounded. Especially nice when we arrived at 2 am and the door man held the door open for 5 minutes with the siren screeching for the full time. I can only imagine what the other guests thought. Then in Mysore the elevator was very nice, it jutted out of the building and had an outside window overlooking the park. But the floor buttons had no relation to which floor the elevator would stop at. push 4, end up on the roof, push 5, get 6. We were on the 5th floor and not once did we actually end up on 5. It got to be a game, where would we land?? Again, the order of events is fuzzy. On our first day, Suresh took us to a mountain temple - chamundeskwari ? - with a beautiful view of the city. The temple was a temple. I skipped entering this one as the line was horrendously long. I just wandered around outside while Judy and Suresh went in.

The Temple Tower

Temple Detail

The pretty version of the line.

The real, very long and ugly version of the line to get in.

There were cows everywhere, again a novelty at the time but now 'whatever'. There was a festival before I arrived that involved cows in some way so many cows in the city are painted yellow, some green, with their horns in gold or red. Pretty but disconcerting to see a yellow jersey cow in the street. Here's a Montage of cows so maybe I won't keep putting more and more picutes of cows.

Yellow Cows

Mom and baby cow

I often used a nearby cow as an excuse to take pictures of people (as if they didn't know they were in the picture!)

This was a huge freakin' cow and it came staight at me but veered off just in time to not trample me. Can one cow, if it is big enough, be a stampede?

Just hangin' out on the temple steps.

After many pictures, did I mention that young men will ask to have their picture taken with you on your camera! People also love for you to take pictures of their babies. But they all pose so the pictures aren't that good. it is fun though and a good excuse to start a conversation. the people are sooooo friendly.

Some more random photos from my time on the mountain.

Young men, just standing around, enjoying each others company.

Ladies

More Ladies

Men

a view of Mysore behind the garbage piles behind the Temple.

A group of boys. After I took this pictures, I got to be in photos with each and every one of them on each one's cellphone camera.

A spontaneous parade.

Selling bracelets for worshippers. Suresh bought one for each of us. Mine dyed my clothes the first time it got wet.

After the temple we hit the sultan's summer palace. Again, with the shoes off. And it was huge and full of marble so my feet were very unhappy with me by the end of that. Not much to say about the palace. Big, lots of wall paintings, intricate carving, no pictures allowed. You've all been there in one country or another.

Most of these pictures of from the grounds as there was no photos allowed inside.

Entrance gate to palace

View of the palace through the entrance gate

Gardener on Palace grounds

View of the Garden from the Palace

a sneak photo of a wall inside the palace. It's not very good but I broke laws to get it so you have to look at it

This is terrible, but I think this is a differnt Palace and for the life of me I don't remember much about it. But I have pictures so here goes.

The 'Other' Palace.

A lion statue outside this mystery palace

Ladies in red and yellow saris

Oops. Another cow photo snuck in.


The best part of this visit was that Judy bought a Sari in the gift shop. The sari will have to be it's very own post because it became quite an epic event. Stay tuned. After the palace, I think we ate because by now I was dying. But alas no rest for the weary, not with Suresh at the wheel. I keep mentioning 'down time' but I think he thinks he will not be earning his keep if we aren't moving. Anyway, off to a park with a lake (name?) where they offer boat rides. We passed a nesting island where the binoculars were pushed to the limit. After we disembarked (haha) we wandered around the park/trees and did some more birding. I have a convert in Suresh, he is keener than me when there is a bird aflutter. I think we skipped dinner that night.

Egret - Cattle I think, I can't see it's feet.

Fish, all those birds have to eat something.

Night Heron (in the day)

An Eagle of some sort or other.

Painted Stork

Judy makes some friends

Row boats

Indian row boats

Off to our lovely room for a much needed sleep. Seriously, we keep falling asleep at 8 o'clock because our days are so full. The next morning we got to sleep in for a bit because our plan for the morning was to got to the Ministry of Forests to get a permit for a National Park. That story will have to be for next times as it is 'temple time' (say that like Hammer-time). Other stories to anticipate, Worst Hotel EVER, a day (or two) in the park, the temple stampede, a visit to the fall, and today - Little Tibet. Did I mention that I need some downtime!! We have been in the boonies so I am hoping that I will have more access to the internet after this. By the way, Judy and I are getting on like a house on fire, we laugh so much at the ridiculousness of so many things that Suresh is starting to worry we are actually insane asylum escapees. And I am getting better at the bathrooms but I still can't keep my scarf from touching the floor! Ick.

Some Indian Wildlife
These little squirels are everywhere. They run with their little tails staight up but it is hard to get a picture because they are so fast.

A very cute baby goat