Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Out and about in Bangalore.

It is 7 am and I only have 30 minutes on the free computer at the hotel here in Mysore. This place is SWANK compared to Kamat hotel in Bangalore. It has a fan and a shower and so far no cockroaches (who made an appearance - just little ones - on our second night at Kamat).

So back to our first day. After we left the Internet place, we wandered over to Brigade Street where Judy knew there was shopping. We walked for what seemed like miles. On our route they were preparing some sort of parade grounds - I learned that the next day was a national holiday. I wanted to take a picture of the National Disaster Management sign for Melissa but first I tried to ID a bird. Out came the binoculars. Within one minute a National Guard came rushing over with his rifle to move us along. I pointed to the bird and he said "it is a bird - GO!" We went, sorry Melissa, no picture. One day my binoculars will get me arrested (remember Kenya?)

Anyway, we made it to Brigade Street but it was super-commercial and by then it was dark and we were tired so we hopped in a auto-rickshaw to go home. I realize I am not breaking any new ground (literary, anthropologically or travel lore wise) by describing Indian traffic but I would be remiss if I didn't give it at least a mention. IT IS INSANE! It makes Bangkok look organized. There are (in order of kill-me-ability) trucks, buses, cars, auto-rickshaws, motorcycles (with up to 6 people per), bicycles, ox carts, carts pulled by barefoot men, random cows, and then the lowest of the low - the poor pedestrian who statistically should have been dead by the age of four if he tried to cross two streets per day from the age of two.

I am trying to decipher the honking, which is constant. There is the 'I am beside you honk', the 'I am passing you honk', I assume (probably incorrectly) that there is a 'watch out because I am not stopping for you' honk for smaller vehicles and pedestrians. Amazingly, I haven't seen an accident despite everyone driving on the wrong side of the road, weaving past each other all the while not hitting cows or people, talking on their cell phones. Fortunately, Suresh is a good driver (insane but good). And I am reassured by the fact that first, he won't get paid if he kills us, second and way more important, he will never get paid again if he wrecks his car.

Suresh is actually a very nice man. I will push my luck and try to tell you about day two even though I will likely get booted from this computer.

My second Kurta outfit. Check out those huge pants. I already look like I have elephanititis!

Suresh picked us up at 10am on Tuesday (after a breakfast of Idly - soft rice cakes with curry dip - yum) to take us on a tour of Bangalore.

My second morning, my second breakfast. This is called Idly, a rice mush cake that comes with dipping sauce.

As I mentioned Tuesday was a National holiday of some sort - not Independence day, that's all I know. Our first stop was a garden (I will have to fill in names later) where they were having a garden show. Indians love their parks.

This was the entrance to the park, a huge rocky area with a tiny temple on top.

A bunny garbage can looking out from the bushes.

I think there was a parakeet up there.


You can't get a picture without people so I just went with it.

Boys climbing a tree

There were traffic cops everywhere. We finally got a parking spot and headed in. So many people. We wandered around for a bit, took some pictures. I am not taking nearly as many pictures as I should. Even though people walk up to us and ask to have their picture taken, especially people with babies, or even ask to take our pictures, I just can't get over the ickyness of objectifying people. But, of course, I am torn. They are such beautiful people. And the colours are out of this world. Fortunately, Judy has no such qualms and is snap happy to there will be lots of photos. But I digress.

Take a picture of our baby!

In the middle of the park was the glass house, actually a green house.
The Glass House behind a million people

The Glass House closer up.

In we went to look at a massive, impressive display of flowers, now wilting in the hothouse. The flowers were secondary however to the bazillion people they had crammed into this glass house. We could barely move. Again, mental flashes of stampeding crowds crushing innocent people under their feet. But, clearly, we made it out, uncrushed.

The crowds inside the Glass House were overwhelming

Flowers!

More flowers but in a pillar this time.

Cops directing the crowds

Or just posing. I hope this isn't a cop but with the child labour laws here - who knows??

The Christmas tree display. Such a sad little wilty tree.

Vegetable towers

More vegetable display.

I did some birding at the lotus pond which wasn't nearly as pretty as the name makes it seem. But there were some good birds, none of which I remember... - a couple of types of moorhens and an Indian Pond Heron? a new Kite, a parrot of some sort.

School Field Day at the park

Selling popcorn.

The lotus pond. Two Indian Pond Herons, a Darter and a Moorhen.

The rose garden.

Yikes!!

Then we went for lunch. Suresh ordered for us. We got some sort of full meal package. First, tomato soup with cardamon and ginger, a coconut pastry, and a papadam with dices onions & other veg. This was called a salad. Then the main meal arrived. Note for mom, this will be the style for your next Indian meal because it was AWESOME! On a big plate, two naan surrounded by 10 little dishes filled with various vegetarian currys, yogurt and cucumber (raita?), rice and I can't even remember what all. It was amazing. Plus the bonus of eating all of this with my hands. Actually hand, one doesn't(or at least tries really hard not to) eat with their left hand. I am getting pretty good at it.

Our lunch. Now I know this is called a Thali (a complete meal with all the fixins)

Judy tucks in.

This restaurant is where I encountered my first Indian toilet. I have dealt with squat toilets in the past and have never been adept at the best of times. I think I am standing backwards. But past practise did not prepare me for my new situation. Add to the squat toilet situation, a scarf, a flowing top, and ridiculously huge pants. Then consider that I am strapped up with hidden bags like a old West gunslinger with one around my waist and another around my neck, under my arm with a strap also around my waist. throw into the mix a purse and a camera and you have a recipe for unpleasantness. Laundry night!.

Suresh is a devout Hindu so he manages to sneak in a couple of temples each day under the guise of 'tourist interest' but really he want to worship. The temples are quite beautiful, (I have pictures which are all starting to look alike) and it is interesting to watch the people doing whatever it is they are doing. Mostly giving money and looking pious. I shall now rant. Every time I go to some poor country, the organized religion drives me crazy. The poorest people giving money for upkeep of an expensive temple plunked down in the middle of their ramshackle homes. But then I remember that I am standing in the middle of these poor poor people with my untold riches (the cost of my camera, binoculars, bag etc could feed a family for a year) and I am equally disgusted by my own culture and self. This is why people don't like to travel - it forces uncomfortable self reflection. This is why I like to travel.

The temple.

Shoes off!

The Bull Temple

My first Bindi.

Need a temple souvenir?

Anyway. We ended the day at Russell Market, a fruit, veg and flower market established by the British in 1927. I was tired by then and had no interest in fruit, veg OR flowers.

Russell Market - I have to say, I did not like this market, it was cramped and smelly and I didn't think the people were very friendly.

Inside the market

More market wares.

Last stop, a nearby Christian church (Suresh thought we needed to pray to our own god?) where they were having mass over loud speakers. What with the neon lights and the booming voice, it wasn't at all comforting like I imagine a church should be. I did try to sit on a bench out front but a guard moved me along. I guess only worshippers are allowed to sit.

The Christian Church lit up at night.

The Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus in the comforting glow of blue Neon

And don't forget to watch for theives while you worship.

A few more random images from the day.

That park temple again.

Selling snacks.

Temple detail.

Me and Judy

Driving by the night market.

Back to Kamat by 8 pm. I skipped dinner, lunch was still with me. Judy fell asleep in her clothes by 8:02. I followed close behind.

I will not even attempt to steal another 30 minutes on this computer - I am in a room behind the front desk and the door keeps opening so I think I am done.

2 comments:

  1. Wow! A very good observation of the city and really well articulated. The holiday on Tuesday (26th Jan) was coz' of Republic Day being celebrated in India and that park is called - Lalbagh.

    About the Indian Toilet, I very well understand how difficult it would been for you! I can totally relate to it

    In conclusion, excellent review of the Bangalore City! Hope to read more!!!

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  2. Hello Jo! Sounds like you are having a blast. I hear you on the toilet thing. I grew to really like them after a while, but it sure takes getting used to. M and I are visiting the cats this weekend...I will give them extra cuddles from you.
    Lea

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